Anfu Ham: A Millennium-Old Delicacy from Jiangxi Goes Global with Craftsmanship and Policy Support

Wander through any market town in Anfu County, Ji’an City, Jiangxi Province, and the rich aroma of ham lingers in the air—a unique signature of Anfu Ham. Nestled at the northern foot of the Luoxiao Mountains, Anfu boasts a mild climate with an average annual temperature of 17.7°C and humidity of around 75%, creating the perfect conditions for ham making. As the golden season for natural fermentation arrives, the scent drifts hundreds of meters away, inviting exploration into the millennium-old secrets of this local industry.

According to China Economic Net, Anfu Ham, known as "Huo Zuo" in the pre-Qin period, flourished in the Ming and Qing dynasties and won a gold medal at the 1915 Panama Pacific International Exposition. "Every ham tells a story of history," said Liu Chengchang, representative inheritor of Anfu Ham making craftsmanship, a provincial intangible cultural heritage in Jiangxi. "It carries not just a craft, but a local culture."

In Shili Village, known as "Ham Village", Liu guides local farmers in judging ham quality with a 20-centimeter bamboo stick, a traditional skill passed down through generations. "This craft is in the blood of Anfu people," he said, inserting the stick three times into different parts of a ham. "A fragrant smell from all three points means it’s authentic Anfu flavor."

Tradition blends with innovation in modern workshops. At Anfu Jinpin Ham Factory, Peng Xiaoqiang, an experienced craftsman, emphasizes the use of hind legs from local "Anfu Rice Pigs". "We adhere to the traditional four-step principle: observe, smell, inquire and touch," he said. Yao Wei, the factory director, noted their cooperation with Jiangxi Agricultural University has shortened the fermentation cycle by 20% while ensuring safety, with nitrite levels as low as 1.62mg/kg, far below the national standard of 30mg/kg.

Policy support has revived the industry after a slump in 2021. The county government repurchased the "Anfu Ham" trademark, established strict quality standards, and launched financial incentives—200 yuan subsidies per Anfu Rice Pig and 10,000 to 50,000 yuan for ham enterprises. By 2025, the industry had 26 association members, producing 255,000 hams annually with an output value of nearly 200 million yuan.

As one of China’s three major hams, Anfu Ham is now going global. According to China Economic Net, it entered Michelin restaurants in Manhattan, USA, in 2025, priced at 128 US dollars per serving, and won unanimous praise in a blind taste test with Iberian ham at the Paris International Gourmet Expo. "Positioning ourselves on unique craftsmanship and health attributes is key to going global," said Zhu Juan, Director of Anfu County Bureau of Commerce. It is now exported to 15 countries and regions, with annual exports exceeding 20 million yuan.